The Sun Shines on Scalpay (3)
Scalpay is one of the smallest inhabited islands in the hebrides, and the land itself is very poor. There is almost no natural arable soil on her rough, peaty terrain, and much of Scalpay is as bare and rocky as mainland Harris. In fact her human history is short. Well into the 18th century Scalpay was one great grazing occupied by a solitary tacksman with a handfull of hangers on. She was more or less forcibly re-populated by a landlord "relocating" tenants cleared from the west of Harris. Driven from their rolling swards by the open Atlantic, a bewildered people were dumped on this rock and told to become fishermen.
Today I intend to explore the place thoroughly. I stop by the shop to refuel on chocolate and lemonade, and then I cycle purposefully along the road. I pass the North Harbour and the South Harbour with its little sheds made from several upturned boats, and pedal up the main island road towards Kennavay. And pass house after house, beautiful and expensive bungalows and villas, with neat gardens and marble nameplates and crazy-paved patios, some with expensive new cars parked by the roadside.
For the history of modern Scalpay is a remarkable success story. Today this little island supports a population of nearly 500 people - larger by far than much bigger islands like Raasay, Jura and Colonsay and nearly four times the combined population of the Small Isles. The land may be poor, and agriculture only viable with the laborious "lazy beds", but the Scalpay people are rich from the spoils of the sea.
