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Scalpay
is one of the smallest inhabited islands in the hebrides,
and the land itself is very poor. There is almost no
natural arable soil on her rough, peaty terrain, and
much of Scalpay is as bare and rocky as mainland Harris.
In fact her human history is short. Well into the 18th
century Scalpay was one great grazing occupied by a
solitary tacksman with a handfull of hangers on. She
was more or less forcibly re-populated by a landlord
"relocating" tenants cleared from the west
of Harris. Driven from their rolling swards by the open
Atlantic, a bewildered people were dumped on this rock
and told to become fishermen.
Today
I intend to explore the place thoroughly. I stop by
the shop to refuel on chocolate and lemonade, and then
I cycle purposefully along the road. I pass the North
Harbour and the South Harbour with its little sheds
made from several upturned boats, and pedal up the main
island road towards Kennavay. And pass house after house,
beautiful and expensive bungalows and villas, with neat
gardens and marble nameplates and crazy-paved patios,
some with expensive new cars parked by the roadside.
For
the history of modern Scalpay is a remarkable success
story. Today this little island supports a population
of nearly 500 people - larger by far than much bigger
islands like Raasay, Jura and Colonsay and nearly four
times the combined population of the Small Isles. The
land may be poor, and agriculture only viable with the
laborious "lazy beds", but the Scalpay people
are rich from the spoils of the sea.
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