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Talk
of travelling with everything but the kitchen stove
- sometimes we bring the stove as welll" says architect
John Taylor of the twice-yearly trek he, his wife Sue
and their dog Tilly make to the Hebrides. Often, too,
there have been Calor gas cylinders, anchor, outboard
motors and crates of food, all of which has to be humped,
shipped and finally unloaded at Ardhakillie, their crofter's
cottage on Scalpay.
To
reach Scalpay, an island of just one and a half miles
by three with a harsh, treeless terrain, there is a
marathon journey from SWl. It would be quicker to jet
to the Himalayas, given the daunting logistics of reaching
this outpost: the first leg is a 650-mile, 13hour drive
and ferry to the Skeabost Hotel on Skye, where they
stay overnight; next morning there is a two-hour journey
by car ferry from Uig to Tarbert on Harris; then a 20-minute
drive along the Harris coast; and a five-minute car
ferry over the water to Scalpay, before finally arriving
at the two-floor stone cottage. Sheep graze over all
the island; the cottage overlooks a lagoon with a view
of islets beyond.
The
Taylors go north in May and September, but since the
weather can be treacherous and gardening is impossible
owing to the relentless winds, what is Scalpay's special
appeal?
"I've always loved islands, rather as
a small boy does," replies
Taylor. "For me, time is a precious commodity
and the greatest luxury now is privacy. The bother of
getting here is trade up by time well spent on the island.
I'm keen on boats and am always building things. Work
with the hands is restorative."
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